{"id":26546,"date":"2026-10-13T16:16:52","date_gmt":"2026-10-13T20:16:52","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/aleta.life\/?p=26546"},"modified":"2026-10-13T23:40:32","modified_gmt":"2026-10-14T03:40:32","slug":"liard-hotsprings-and-edmonton","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/aleta.life\/index.php\/2026\/10\/13\/liard-hotsprings-and-edmonton\/","title":{"rendered":"Liard Hotsprings and Edmonton"},"content":{"rendered":"
Position: 53\u00b031’10.7″N 113\u00b029’44.8″W<\/a><\/h6>\n

\"\"<\/a>Returning to the northern rockies after 12 years away, I went back to my journal<\/a> from my earlier trip and looked up my thoughts about Liard Hot Springs. Having sold Carol on the idea of a soak in the woods, I was curious to read what I thought about my first visit.<\/p>\n

This is what I wrote then<\/a>: \u201cLiard Hot Springs is one of those monuments to all things positive about governments and society. Here is a well-cared-for public good that in a private setting would cost hundreds of dollars to enjoy. Located as it is in a remote part of the backwoods; it was neither overcrowded nor dirty. There is a long boardwalk over a swamp that leads out to a small amphitheatre built up on one side of the springs. <\/em><\/p>\n

The slightly sulphurous waters ranged from really very hot at the point it enters the long wading pool, to pleasantly cool once it passes over the weir and joins a natural stream. Relaxing in the mineral rich waters I felt like one of those Japanese monkeys. Life was really pretty good at that moment. As I floated on my back looking up at the dwindling light, I imagined that this kind of bathing was a worthy form of exercise. Which it is.\u201d<\/em><\/p>\n

Electric Fencing<\/h6>\n

From then until now, little has changed. Since my first visit, the campground has become a little more cautious about bears. BC Parks installed its first campground-wide electric fence at Liard. On my 2014 visit, the rangers were busy looking out for a bear that had been hanging around and foraging for food. As one of BC Regional Parks\u2019 most popular<\/a> sites, Liard Hot Springs is booked almost continuously through the summer season. I suspect it also makes plenty of money: enough to afford a few miles of electrified fencing.<\/p>\n

On our initial dip in the hot springs, I channelled my inner Finn(lander) and soaked for twice as long as Carol. There are few things better in life than lounging around in warm water<\/a>. Just ask any of the critters that make their way to the hot springs in the dead of winter. When the bears are hibernating, moose are particularly grateful for the opportunity to warm themselves unthreatened. Or so we were told.<\/p>\n

We stayed two nights, chowing our way through what was left of our food. The small motel and RV park across the highway had a barren convenience store. But with gin, tonic, and fresh water we had all we needed for drinks and to reconstitute our remaining Mountain House<\/a> freeze-dried meals.<\/p>\n

Lodge Life<\/h6>\n

\"\"<\/a>Pointing south, we drove only as far as the Northern Rockies Lodge<\/a> for a night. Located 56kms away on Muncho Lake, the lodge has been in business for decades. Sledge and I had stopped there for breakfast and I described it as \u201c\u2026a hunting lodge for rich wierdos<\/a>.\u201d Having now slept there, my earlier opinion was, perhaps, a little unfair. The service was friendly and our room with its exposed wood logs comfortable. If you have the cash, you can charter a plane and flightsee the surrounding area. Their photos made the area\u2019s glaciers and waterfalls look particularly appealing. If you fish, this looks like a great place for it.<\/p>\n

The Northern Rocky Mountains have their own vibe and singular beauty. Not as tall as the Rockies further south, the mountains maintain a rugged appeal with lots of accessible hiking trails. If you\u2019re unsure which road to take south out of Watson Lake, stick with BC Route 97. This road takes you through the heart of the mountains with plenty of camping in the nearby provincial parks.<\/p>\n

A third of a mile south of the lodge is the Red Rock Canyon trail. The trail follows a small stream uphill along the wash through rocky outcroppings and clutches of pine trees. Despite the running water and dry sunny weather, mosquitoes were out in force. Naturally, Carol took the full brunt of their onslaught. By the time we were a mile and a half in, she\u2019d gotten a dozen bites around her neck and enough was enough. We turned back. Besides, the trail was winding back and forth across the river. Slick river rocks and a lack of gaiters had already dampened our enthusiasm for the hike.<\/p>\n

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