The Lagoon of Dead Boats

POSITION: 18°04’28″N 63°05’46″W

Hurricane Irma tore through the northern Caribbean in September 2017. Saint Martin, the split French/Dutch island, was hit particularly hard. We stopped there twice. Once on our way down the Leewards and again before we crossed the Atlantic at the end of May, 2019.

Rebuilding was going more slowly on the French half than the Dutch. But the French side was easier and less expensive to enter, and the croissants at the local bakery to die for. Anchored in the large bay, I’d wake up, hop in Nell and zip through the lagoon for freshly baked yummies, like plain and chocolate croissants, as well as baguettes and other crew pleasers. Marlon was always happy to ride along.

But the lagoon as you will see in this short video was full of storm-damaged boats. Some half sunk, some still lived on, most dismasted. Between insurance companies dragging their feet, missing owners and the means to clear out the debris, it’s hard to know how long the boats have been there. It’s quite possible several wrecks predate Irma.

I can tell you that the lagoon is not a pleasant place in which to swim or anchor. We went in for a day for an insurance-mandated rigging inspection prior to crossing the Atlantic. The drawbridge opens only twice a day, once in the morning and again in the evening. When we fouled our anchor on a chain, it was my job the jump in the murky, smelly water and free it. Time was of the essence or we’d have had to spend the night there. Fortunately, the water was shallow and our anchor cleared in a matter of seconds. I took a very long swim out in the bay to rinse off.

This video was sitting in the vaults waiting for the editor. At last the full director’s cut is here for your enjoyment: