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Position: 41°09’16.7″N 7°46’57.1″W
Another four days of Atlantic churn meant we could tick off a barrel-sized item on our bucket list: wine tasting in the heart of the Douro Valley. But first we had a hoped-for date with monster waves in surfer’s paradise. That meant hiring a car. Steering wheel in hand, we headed through the chaotic, squirrely streets that cling to the hills around Porto and made a beeline for the motorway south.
Nazaré Redux
The first two times we sailed the coast of Portugal, one of our favourite spots was the surfing mecca, Nazaré. Some of the largest waves in the world form at the promontory and we figured with a full-blown hurricane stirring up the Atlantic, things would be even livelier than they were during our first visit (q.v.).
Disappointingly, Nazaré has been discovered. The great unwashed oozed through every side street, nook and cranny. Menus in three languages adorned the cafés and racks of sunscreen propped open the shops. Toiling up the hill to the old town and crowd-surfing down the road to the lighthouse was like participating in a group therapy session for agoraphobia.
Fog swirled and obscured our view, driving us further towards the cliff’s edge. Then suddenly it lifted, revealing waves that looked suitable only for beginners. The Atlantic swell rolled in but never turned into anything significant. Nothing like the 100’ monster waves we’d hoped for, and only half the size of the ones we had witnessed on our first visit. Now, we were stuck for the night in a crowded tourist hotspot that we couldn’t wait to get out of. Curse Instagram!
History
Portugal is narrow, about 80 miles across. Keeping the Spanish out has occupied the minds of Portuguese rulers for centuries. Thankfully, the mountains running the length of the country form a natural barrier to invading armies. Unless you’re travelling by river, there are no easy routes through to the major cities. Nonetheless, in 1807 the Spanish, with the help of Napoleon’s French forces, invaded and occupied Portugal. Portugal’s feeble army offered little resistance.
A year later Napoleon invaded Spain, instantly making an enemy of his ally. Spain and France set on each other in what is now known as the Peninsular War. In August of 1808, the British arrived in Portugal under the command of General Arthur Wellesley (better known as the Duke of Wellington). The disaffected Spanish along with the British routed the French Imperial forces who quickly withdrew. The Spanish then chased the French back to Spain and continued fighting them there. To this day, the British are held in high regard for their contributions in maintaining Portugal’s independence.
Port wine, I am convinced, played a significant role in Britain’s decision to assist the Portuguese. During the 18th century, Britain’s on-going conflicts with the French led to high tariffs and embargoes on French wine imports. Portuguese wines became England’s dipsomaniacal lifeline. The very idea the French might choke off their secondary supply by invading Portugal no doubt induced apoplexy in the halls of Westminster and Saint James’s Palace. Besides, Brits already owned many of the biggest port houses. Sobriety was not an option!
Caves not Cavas
Heading inland from Nazaré, the succinctly named Parque Natural das Serras de Aire e Candeerios (a national park) rises quickly to heights of 600 metres and more. Ever a sucker for a guided spelunk, we slapped down 20 euros for a combined ticket to explore the dank confines of the caves of San Antonio and Alvados. Given the proximity of the two cave systems, they’re about 1.3 kilometres apart, you would think there is a direct connection between them. There probably is but it just hasn’t been discovered, yet.
Of the two, I liked the Grutas de Alvados more. Our young, burly guide easily switched between Portuguese, Spanish and English. He led us along a path that weaved its way in and around a couple of big chambers that had the remnants of a primordial river running through them. Flanking the big rooms were chimneys hollowed out of the mountain. These tall, narrow antechambers stretched up and down for over thirty metres. The path narrowed and the ceiling dropped. Smooth, undisturbed pools lay on either side. Having sat so long, crystalline nodules like hives have formed from the slow lapping of the mineral rich waters.
Both caves have adapted to the needs of tourists. Jackhammers broke open pathways that the original explorers must have wriggled through. Electric lighting keeps people from tripping over their own feet or slipping on the slimy green ooze that carves away at the soft limestone walls.
These caves are nothing like the Stygian darkness found in the ‘unimproved’ lava tubes of Mount Saint Helens in Washington State, but making caves accessible brings in the crowds and the money. As a customer, you can imagine what life underground was like for our forebears. Limited ingress, a constant 52-degree temperature, fresh water and seclusion all have proven benefits for the persecuted. If humans weren’t such poopy animals, we might still be living in caves free from the tyranny of microwave communications.
Adoring the Douro (Valley)
Slow, meandering roads along the south side of the Douro River make for pleasant driving. Negotiating the many switchbacks, views of the wide, steep valley slid in and out of sight. Small villages atop steep hillsides shared commonalities like a church overlooking the town square. Dotted around the town square, cafés with broad red awnings keep chatty old men occupied and protect them from the brilliant midday sun.
Portugal’s chief wine growing region has been in business for three thousand years. Unlike the French or Americans who favour a few grapes like Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir and grow them in vast quantities, the Portuguese like their varietals. More than 150 types of grapes are cultivated in stepped terraces all along the valley. Older terraces use beautifully crafted dry-stone retaining walls. Newer terraces are mown out of the clay and schist by GPS-guided tractors that maintain the proper carving angle with inclinometers.
Grapes
At harvest time, port grapes are squashed underfoot just like in the olden days. Machines, unlike more sensitive feet, crush the seeds resulting in more tannic wines. Soft feet, you see, makes for softer wine. This traditionalism forms an essential part of what makes Portuguese wines special. Blending a successful vintage is an artform all its own. Some distinctive wines are so unique they cannot be repeated year after year.
Port wines have 82 permitted varieties of grape, and 30 recommended ones. Grapes like Touriga Franca, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Nacional are among the most common. Others have evocative names like Bastardo, Cornifesto, Jaen, São Saul and Vital. Fortified with brandy during production port stabilizes and becomes richer, sweeter, and nearly twice as alcoholic. Fortification along with blending helps dampen some of the annual variations in the grape harvest, too.
Pausing for a late lunch at the Quinto de S. Bernardo we accompanied our salads with a short tasting flight of wines. The wines were as subtly varied as they were complex and delicious. Warm sunlight dappled through the vines woven into the pergola above us. Tour boats forged upriver, the onshore breeze following them eastwards. Bucolic booze is hard to beat. But at $350 a night for a double room, we didn’t want to fall into the trap of drinking too much and staying for dinner.
Mastiffs
The Quinta de Travassinhos sits on a narrow lane up a steep valley 15 minutes from Régua, the beating heart of the lower Douro valley. This wonderful and carefully renovated country estate sports comfortable, airy rooms, an outdoor pool, an indoor spa pool, and an excellent breakfast. Dinner was a little disappointing, but judging by other’s reviews it may have been an off night. Our waiter, however, took a fancy to my waxed moustache, and possibly to me as well.
Take a long walk through the hotel’s extensive vineyards and you get an idea of how much work went into building the miles of dry-stone walls throughout the valley. Head out at the right time and two big soppy Cão de Gado Transmontano (Transmontano Mastiffs) will happily walk with you. A rare breed, Transmontanos live in the high Douro mountains and protect livestock ferociously. Tall and slim with the face of a Labrador they don’t look the least like mastiffs, but I’ll bow to the experts.
Lamego
Lamego is the Lower Douro’s cultural centre and sits 15 kilometres south of Régua. Sundays are not, perhaps, the best day to visit towns in Portugal. People tend to take their day of rest seriously in this part of the world. Nevertheless, we lucked out and ate lunch at the fantastic Boémia Bistro (41°05’41.0″N 7°48’35.4″W). The food and wine was really perfect, wonderfully served, and a very reasonably priced.
With full tummies and fuzzy heads, we headed towards the church along with, incongruously, a dozen motorcyclists (bikers) in full regalia. Lamego’s church differentiates itself with its relative simple layout and wonderfully rich frescos (see pics). Now it was time to find coffee. Not an easy prospect on Sundays, but here again we lucked out.
Walking uphill through the narrow spine of the old walled city, we looped around and found Espaço Arar, a restaurant, coffee shop and artist’s retreat. Rui, the owner, is a visual artist on a mission to combine his studio work with the slow food movement. His passion for both came through in our wide-ranging conversation. Next time we’ll come with an appetite.
Tedo
Speaking of appetite. What road trip is worth its salt if you don’t stop at a Michelin starred restaurant and winery? (None is the short answer – ed.) Heading back towards Porto, one of the best restaurants along the river is the Quinto do Tedo’s. Besides being a full-on vineyard and winery, the Quinto do Tedo gained a single Michelin star in 2023 for its creative takes on local dishes. Anytime we can grab a lunch table at a Michelin starred restaurant, we take it. Lunch is always less expensive than dinner, even in the best restaurants. At really posh ones, lunch can be a true bargain. Tedo’s menu changes frequently. If you want to feel jealous (we hope you do) you can find it here: Quinto do Tedo – Bistro Terrace
A Couple of Swells
With all that indulgence under our belts, it was once again time to check the weather forecast. From our analysis, we could either leave on the morning’s ebb tide and head straight to Lisbon, or wait another week. Just after sunrise, we fired up Aleta’s 55HP Westerbeke and sailed out to face the swell.
