Position: 36°55’57″N 24°41’19″E

The best-known Cyclades islands are household names and global brands. Mykonos, Santorini, Paros and Naxos are the headliners. With direct flights and regular ferry services, those islands’ year-round populations increase by orders of magnitude in July and August. If you enjoy partying and rubbing shoulders with legions of like-minded hedonists, then they are the places for you.

However, if you’re willing to go the extra mile there are still Cycladian gems that attract more Greeks than Germans. Sifnos is one of those. Don’t misunderstand me, it is still a tourist spot, but one catering to families and couples seeking a quieter, lower-key experience. It is also popular with cruisers, particularly the French. Which is good, because not only do the French care about food, they helped establish a lively foodie scene on the island for the rest of us.


Dinner tonight was prepared courtesy of the Okyalos restaurant smack in the heart of Apollonia, the largest town and capital. After a day of zipping around on a 125cc Sym scooter taking in every historical site we could manage, having someone else do the cooking was welcomed.

We started with two local specialties, Revithada and Chloromanoura. The first is a local version of chickpea soup that is justifiably lauded. Hot soup on a hot day may sound like a recipe for heat stroke, but with the sun setting and cooling ocean breezes fanning the town it was simply delicious. Chickpeas are prepared the night before and then cooked in herbed broth for at least 6 hours in a traditional wood oven in earthenware pots. The result is a rich soup of whole, slightly al dente chickpeas that you can garnish with lemon if you wish.

Chloromanoura is a local goat’s cheese with a bite. For our dish, slices of deep-fried cheese about an eighth of an inch thick came topped with sweet, dried figs daubed with fig syrup. Such indulgence needed the right wine, and we found a 2021 Alpha Estate Single Vineyard Malagouzia fit the bill nicely. Dry, crisp, floral with minerals, it proved a perfect foil for the richness of the two appetizers. It held up extremely well with our entrées, seafood risotto and vegetarian moussaka, as well.

This kind of perfectly executed comfort food is a mainstay of the island’s restaurateurs. Good on them I say.


Here are a few photos from our whirlwind tour of Sifnos Island:



  1. Yummy food and delicious photos wow!!! Hi and hugs xoxo from all of us here at Siskiyou Street now: Terry, Yuri, Mochi, Minsu, Jun, and Mom0 (Jun’s ferret)

  2. Pingback: Kefalonia - The Adventures of Aleta

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.