Posted by 
Position: 38°35’01″N 28°42’04″W
We’ve spent the past week on Faial anchored in Horta harbor. There are three good reasons transatlantic sailors stop here on their way to Europe. First, it’s a better harbor than the island of Flores, some 150 miles to the northwest. Flores, while reputedly beautiful, is small. Its harbor, also small, becomes untenable in a northerly wind and can produce six-foot waves inside the breakwater. In those conditions boats drag their anchors and much hilarity ensues. Better to press on for Faial. As if to reinforce this, we chatted with a couple of crews who were warned by the harbormaster on Flores to leave – immediately! – ahead of a wind shift. If we’d stopped in Flores, we would have left again within 24 hours. Then we’d have faced a long, 300-mile upwind slog to Horta*.
Second, Faial has several good pubs. Peter’s Café Sport is a perennial favorite. Famous for its gin and its scrimshaw museum, Peter’s has been in operation for 101 years. The pub has served most of the big names in 20th century sailing including Francis Chichester and Bernard Moitessier. Jose Azevedo, Peter’s third generation family owner and manager, gave about 30 members of the Ocean Cruising Club a guided tour of his family’s extensive scrimshaw collection. Much of the work was by local artists, but there were some fine antique scrimshaws etched by honest-to-god whalers. Truth be told, however, we spent more time at the Oceanic Cafe just up the street. Established a few years ago by gifted marine artist Les Gallagher, Oceanic has great food, a good selection of beers and fast wifi. Everything a cruiser needs.
American Connections
Whaling was an important industry for the Azores right up until the early 1980s. In the 19th century American whaling ships would stop in the Azores and take on crew. Then they’d continue around the world for three or four years. So miserable was life aboard many of the crew jumped ship as soon as they could. Thus the Azorean diaspora spreads far and wide. It also helps explain the origins of the large Portuguese communities in Massachusetts and Rhode Island.
The third reason people head for Faial is, whatever outdoorsy activity you desire, you can find it here. There’s plenty of hiking, diving, cycling, sailing, cow-tipping, and swimming to satisfy most adrenaline junkies.
Volcanoes
Faial has two major volcanoes. The main Caldeira straddles the center of the island and is easily accessible by car. Blanketed in clouds, winds accelerate up the mountain and through the caldera knocking you off your feet. Even on a quiet day you’ll lose your hat. A five-mile hike around the perimeter of the caldera with a 1,200’ of elevation gain takes about two hours. Views down on lush, verdant fields and hedgerows fade in and out with the mists. Look the other way and the steep edge of the caldera falls away beneath you.
Capelinhos, a newly formed volcano, lies at northwest end of the island. First erupting in September 1957, the volcano took some 13 months to fully form. Still barren and foreboding, the landscape surrounding the cone is spectacular. The abandoned steampunk Capelinhos lighthouse augments the eerie sense of desolation. We loved it.
*tacking
