Zion National Park (Photos)

Position: 37°15’32″N 112°57’01″W

Carol had waxed lyrical about Zion, but the entire area was new to me. It didn’t take long to understand why it’s so busy. As soon as we passed the east entrance the road dipped and turned the first of many corners. The familiar tan and red layered stone, now etched with fine horizontal lines, closed in. A long line of vans, trailers and cars made its way down the valley and into a precipitous tunnel. Popping back out into daylight we navigated several switchbacks under the sheer walls of the deep valley until we reached its floor, happy that we weren’t traveling in the opposite direction.

Given Zion’s popularity parking near the visitor’s centre or anywhere else wasn’t an option. We carried on for Springdale and sprung for parking along the road. The Park Service runs an efficient bus service and requires everyone to wear a mask when using it. Overcast and humid, there was plenty of heavy weather south and west of us that might have headed in our direction. Horsing around slot canyons if there’s even a hint of rain isn’t sensible. Instead, we opted for the Angel’s Landing trailhead and began the punishing climb straight up the cliffside.

On the advice of a couple of park rangers, rather than join the crowds scaling Angel’s Landing, we turned left and carried along the West Rim Trail. Suddenly we were alone. For the next 90 minutes we clambered along the well-marked path leading in and up the mountains and saw one young couple, several chipmunks and a couple of deer. Given how tightly packed the busses were, shaking off the mob felt good.

Brewsing Work

Stretching out a couple of cramps after a solid 10-mile hike with 3,600 feet of elevation gain, meant we’d earned a couple of beers. Each. Fortunately, the Zion Brewery is right outside the park gates. The singular advantage of 5% beer is that you can have a long conversation and remain largely coherent if you pace yourself. We met Oliver. Oliver is a recovering cybernaut and IT security consultant. He’s also a keen aficionado of national parks and the outdoor life. After a couple of rounds we were ready to take on the world. Hail fellow! Well met!

Splurging a bit on our hotel, Carol booked us in to the Zion Canyon Bed & Breakfast. Our room was both huge and filled with all kinds of southwestern themed stuff. A fully grown (stuffed) mountain lion peered over the bathtub, ready to pounce. The king-sized bed meant we had plenty of elbow room. More than even Marlon could monopolise. Our room’s circular window beautifully framed the hills behind the house. Breakfast was yummy and served with the help of the innkeeper’s delightful seven-year-old daughter.

And…

For my nickel’s worth, Zion is better value than the Grand Canyon. Spectacular scenery aside, the park feels more accessible. Trails lead everywhere and, for those willing to explore a little further, you can find peace and quiet in a matter of a mile or two.